Hands-On: the Ming 37.02 Ghost (and Some Other Mings too)

Last fall (2024), I felt the itch for something new—that hankering one gets when they just need a new watch. I usually resist, but this time, the fates had a different plan for me. You see, sitting on the forums was an unworn Ming 37.07 Monolith just looking for a good home. I had wanted a Ming for a while, but found myself never in the right place at the right time—or with the right amount of watch-budget when they were released. For a while, in those post-COVID bubble days, Ming’s watches sold out really fast. So, you were either ready at the moment… or not.
So, when the 37.07 Monolith, my favorite of the brand’s most recent generation of watches (up until that point), unworn and slightly below retail, was available, I knew I had to go for it. Since its arrival, it has become one of my most frequently worn watches. Not just because it’s new, though that always is a factor, but because there is something wholly different about it from any other watch I’ve owned. It’s modern to the bone—sleek, mysterious, and compelling. The dial defies convention by appearing surfaceless and void-like, without printed or applied markers. It’s minimal yet legible, giving you just enough. And it’s surprisingly comfortable to wear, hugging the wrist with a generously domed profile.
But why am I talking about this watch when this article is intended as a review for a different model, the 37.02 Ghost? While different models, they are both part of the 37-series, as are several other recent Ming releases, including their first general production model, the 37.02 Minimalist. Although different in many ways, these watches share a significant amount of DNA, most notably in their case design. Though wearing one is not precisely like wearing another, as I’ve had prolonged exposure to the Monolith, I can speak to living with its general proportions and the Ming aesthetic. Also, this article gives me an excuse to write about it.
Hands-On: the Ming 37.02 Ghost (and Some Other Mings too)
Grade 2 Titanium
MING SW300.M1 (Sellita Base)
Grade 2 Titanium
Yes
Sapphire
Leather
100m
38mm x 44.5mm
11mm
20mm
push-pull
Yes
$4300
Case
Over the years since its launch, various unique factors have gone into defining the Ming design language, but the case shape has, since the start, been the most easily recognizable element. Though a riff on the standard circular mid-case-with-lugs concepts, the distinct shape of the lugs, which curl back in an almost baroque fashion, has always been a calling card of the brand, existing in one form or another on every model. A love it or leave it detail, it was jarring when the brand debuted in the height of the vintage-pastiche trend. But, like anything else, it has lost its edge over time as we’ve grown accustomed to seeing it, now just indicating at a glance that “this is a Ming.”
The 37-series cases measure 38mm x 44.5mm with varying thicknesses depending on the models, though the Ghost, the Minimalist, and the Monolith all come in at 11mm. That dimension, however, reads as less, as it only measures 11mm at the apex of the domed crystal and case back. Mirroring each other, the smooth, edge-to-edge domes of the top sapphire and display caseback create a soft, fluid form, allowing for an appealing thickness of approximately 7mm along the case side. The domed caseback also lets the watches sink into the wrist just a little, reducing the perceived height.
Overall, the case is compact. The bezel design, however, overhangs the mid-case by just a hair, allowing for an expansive crystal and dial, which gives the watches greater presence as well as a clean, modern appearance.
As for the swooping lugs, though I wasn’t a fan back when Ming first launched, I now see them as a necessary element. A normal lug shape would just be underwhelming and lacking character. As said before, it’s a signature element, and as such, acts as branding. Though “Ming” is on the dial, it’s almost an Easter egg, located within the lumed index rather than at a standard position, so the case design does more of the talking.
That’s what these watches have in common; the Ghost, however, stands out by being fully brushed grade 2 titanium, which is to say pure titanium. Ming typically has used steel in this price bracket, making the Ghost uncommon. As titanium is 33% lighter than steel, the Ghost weighs less than the Monolith at 35 grams. That said, the Monolith is by no means heavy, weighing 45 grams.
The weight is also not why Ming chose this material, which makes sense as there wasn’t a weight issue. Rather, it was for its aesthetic character. Grade 2 titanium is darker and a bit warmer than steel, and doesn’t take a polish well, so it is typically brushed or blasted. Inspired by architectural finishing, the concept was essentially to create a watch that utilized this almost industrial style of surfacing as its primary decorative element. As such, the case and dial are crafted wholly from brushed titanium, using the directionality of the brushing to create contrast.
The brushing is well-executed, of course, with an appealing texture; however, I don’t feel it’s as exciting as the mixed finishing of the Minimalist or the matte black of the Monolith. There is a sleekness to the case that is emphasized by the polished top surfaces of the Minimalist and the dense darkness of the Monolith’s DLC. The brushing somehow takes some of the mystique away. That said, given that the case and dial are uniform, they should be looked at together for a different perspective.
Dial
One of the greatest strengths of Ming’s watches, at least in my experience, is that they have a unique definition of what a dial is. Layers of sapphire, floating indices, laser engravings—but what you typically look for isn’t there. Nothing printed, applied, surface engraved, etc, and somehow, they don’t feel “made” in a traditional sense. Evidence of the human hand is not visible. It’s all synthetic and impossibly precise, like it just appeared out of nowhere, complete. This makes them feel both futuristic and alien. This isn’t easy to pull off and has taken years of refining their manufacturing techniques to achieve.
The Ghost is a bit of an oddball, however, as it is somehow more traditional, yet also entirely unconventional. Whereas the Minimalist and Monolith feature abyssal black surfaces, the Ghost is two pieces of metal, one atop the other. They appear as a surface and a chapter ring, sloping up towards the edge of the crystal in a typical fashion. My first reaction to seeing this watch, which was actually in Geneva in April, was that it looked incomplete, as if what I saw was either a dial blank or the bottom of an empty case. Although utilized unconventionally to create an architectural detail or moment where two planes with different finishes meet, they also resemble standard features of a dial, creating a sense that something was missing.
Obviously, this was just an initial impression. Once taken in, the floating index, which is etched into the back of the sapphire crystal, comes into focus and completes the dial concept. The design of the index is very appealing, featuring concentric circles with legged gaps that alternate every five minutes/per hour between the inside and outside. It’s the same design used on the 37.09 Bluefin diver. Although the multi-part dial surface is a departure from the typical Ming vocabulary, this floating index ties the watch back to the others.
In terms of finishing, the use of contrasting textures is effective. The opposing directions of the grain cause light to fall across them differently, which spills over onto the case as well. Moving the watch around in light, the way it casts across the surfaces is constantly changing, given this relatively simple design a dynamic character. Furthermore, the fact that it’s made of titanium inside and out captures the industrial look they were going for.
Movement
The Ghost is powered by the MING SW300.M1, which is a Sellita SW300 with extensive aesthetic customization. I really appreciate Ming’s approach to movement decoration as, much like the overall watch design, it’s not trying to fulfill some typical expectation. You won’t find extra Côtes de Genève, perlage, or polished bevels. Rather, it’s turned matte black, likely with a Ruthenium coating, and has had various components skeletonized, including the rotor, various bridges, and even the top of the barrel. Also, in terms of skeletonization, which can lean baroque, the effect is industrial. It’s worth noting that this level of customization is not inexpensive for a brand to achieve.
Wearability
The 37-series Mings wear incredibly well. They are svelte and compact, yet manage to have significant presence, thanks to the wide dial. The 38mm x 44.5mm size is very agreeable for my 6.75” wrist, and I know that Zach Kazan, who owns the Uni, also enjoys it on his 7.5” wrist. The short lug-to-lug design ensures they sit well, regardless of wrist size, albeit at the expense of strap versatility. As mentioned before, the double-domed profile makes the 11mm thickness feel far less, which, anecdotally, is usually the first thing people notice when they put one on (my Monolith got tried on often at Windup SF).
I’ve praised the virtues of titanium many times on Worn & Wound, both in written and video form. I love the material for its lightness, tonality, temperature (a titanium bracelet heats up to your skin and feels amazing), hypoallergenic nature, and more. And, generally speaking, I think any watch made of steel could possibly benefit from being made of titanium. But, in this instance, I’m not sure. Probably because I have the Monolith to compare it to, but dare I say, the Ghost feels too light for me.
This isn’t a “quality” thing, which you occasionally hear from people who equate the lightness with a lack of substance or build quality, even if they know it’s psychological. Instead, because of how light it was, it didn’t want to stay seated on my wrist as well as the Monolith, lifting up and sliding around. The leather strap it was mounted to fought with it, perhaps being too rigid or thick for such a light case. As mentioned, the head of the Monolith is only 45 grams, so it’s hardly heavy, but that little bit of extra weight anchors it. With that said, the weight wasn’t why Ming used titanium in the first place, but it is, of course, a notable aspect of the watch.
Regarding straps, while the short lugs might make finding third-party straps that fit a bit more difficult (pro tip: buy some curved spring bars, they are very handy to have around), Ming’s straps and buckle concept are excellent. Jean Rousseau makes their leather straps, so they are very high quality, but it’s really their rubber strap that is exceptional. A unique design featuring asymmetrical thicknesses, the rubber strap complements Ming’s tailless buckle system. The resulting design is remarkably ergonomic and comfortable. Though made of FKM rubber, which is not entirely uncommon, this strap feels different from others I’ve tried. Typically, I don’t like rubber straps, as I find them irritating, but that hasn’t been the case with Ming’s, which I now use almost exclusively on my Monolith.
Conclusion
This might sound like overdoing it, but Mings just aren’t like other watches. Much like how people set their Rolexes apart from other brands, going back to them for a particular feel, Mings are a different experience. They are cast from a different mould. I’m not necessarily saying that is good. I like it, but others might not. The point is that Ming has honed an aesthetic and a feel that is supported by a unique set of manufacturing skills that you won’t find replicated elsewhere. It’s different enough that I could understand owning more than one for a different feature or look, despite a general similarity. Or, not owning any, for that matter.
With that said, the 37.02 Ghost seems like a bit of an outlier. The titanium makes it lighter, the finishing less sleek, the dial sparse and constructed. As such, it loses some of what I like so much about the model I have. Perhaps reviewing this watch while having the other to compare to created a bias. So, to take a step back, unto itself, there’s a lot to like about the Ghost, especially if you want a really light and tough watch (it’s worth noting that they tested the water resistance beyond the 100m stated). It’s also strikingly stark in a way that even so-called “minimal” watches with entirely blank, black surfaces don’t achieve. It feels like things have been stripped away, leaving only the most bare expression of what can be. I’m not what architects Ming had in mind when designing this model, but Ivo Shandor might have been amongst them (…it’s a Ghost joke).
Ultimately, like most Ming models, the Ghost is a singular expression of their design philosophy, limited and therefore essentially isolated. Based on my experience, I don’t know if it’s the ideal “first” Ming, given its idiosyncratic qualities, but as an expression or an alternative to perhaps a bulkier Ming model (such as one of their Agenhor chronographs), it offers a departure. Priced at 3,500 CHF ($4,300 at time of writing), the Ghost is in line with Ming’s other Sellita-based watches, which is to say, not inexpensive, but a fair price for the quality and movement customization, especially from an indie. Ming
The post Hands-On: the Ming 37.02 Ghost (and Some Other Mings too) appeared first on Worn & Wound.














Comments
Post a Comment