[VIDEO] Hands-On: The Incredibly Wearable Grand Seiko SLGW007
It’s very telling to me to see what my initial reactions were to a watch when it was announced. At Watches and Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko launched the SLGW003 “birch bark” featuring a new movement, the manual-wound 9SA4, and a new case within the Evolution 9 series. Looking back at the video that Zach Kazan and I shot to accompany the announcement post, you can see just how excited we were about it, despite being jet-lagged and inundated with new releases.
The interesting part is that the new movement, which by all measures is the more significant development for the brand in terms of R&D, played second fiddle to the case, which addressed some enthusiast issues with Grand Seikos. At 38.6mm x 45mm x 9.95mm, the SLGW003 had idyllic proportions, particularly in terms of thickness, which has long been a thorn in GS’s Zaratsu-polished side. Additionally, the 003 featured 20mm lugs, an uncommon feature for a GS, yet the most common strap width.
It’s funny how big a deal a couple of dimensions can be, and yet, as you can see, it’s what we cared about most. Since that release, Grand Seiko has only used the 9SA4 in one other set of watches, the epically cool 45GS tribute SLGW005 and its precious metal sibling, the SLGW004, but not until the SLGW007, the watch I’m actually supposed to be writing about, have we seen a return to that new case design.
Although I’ve encountered the SLGW003 in person a couple of times, I haven’t had the chance to wear it for more than a few minutes at a time, so the opportunity to try out its new iteration was very exciting. I mean, this is the ideal GS case, right? Now, to be fair, the 003 and 007 are not identical, as the former is high-intensity titanium, and the latter is plain old steel. In terms of experience, the roughly ⅓ reduction in weight would be noticeable, but as these aren’t large watches and aren’t on bracelets, whether titanium is really needed is questionable (though, to be fair, no one needs an excuse to use titanium, as it’s the best).
[VIDEO] Hands-On: The Incredibly Wearable Grand Seiko SLGW007
Stainless Steel
Grand Seiko 9SA4
Dark Blue
NO
Sapphire
Leather
“Splash Resisitant”
38.6 x 45mm
9.95mm
19mm
Push-Pull
Yes
$10000
Upon first taking the 007 out of the packaging, what struck me this time around wasn’t the size so much as the design itself. A real “forest for the trees” moment, I don’t recall fully grasping the beauty of it in my other encounters. Although it is a variation on the Evolution 9 case, which has been around for several years, the geometry and finishing really caught my attention. It has aggressive lines and a modern attitude that speaks to the best of their other case designs from 45 to 62GS. The way the finishing alternates in bands between Zaratsu polishing and fine brushing, emphasizing both, without coming off as garish, is exceptional.
And then you have the new proportions of this version, which makes it work even better. One thing I recalled from the original white birch, the SLGH005, is that with the bracelet off, the lugs felt too thin. That watch featured a 21mm lug width and a 40mm diameter. Though I imagine the temptation to go to 19mm was strong given the brand’s proclivities (I have three GSes and, despite being very different models that span from 37mm to 40mm, they all have 19mm lugs), the decision to go to 20mm paid off. Not only is it just far more convenient for those of us with sizeable strap collections, but the ratio of 38.6mm to 20mm feels just right, and allows for slightly beefier lugs.
The newfound thickness, or lack thereof, further balances the form, playing off the Evo 9’s already nimble feel. GS is a weird brand in that most of its watches dance between sporty and dressy, with outliers on either side, falling into either category more based on your use than the design. Despite their high-end trappings, they are built as everyday watches- solid and substantial. But thanks to the combination of lines and trim profile, this version of the case feels sleeker and aerodynamic. To attempt a car analogy, the 9SA4 case is the coupé, while the 9SA5 case is the touring model.
While numbers are well and good, it’s the fit that ultimately matters, and, unsurprisingly, the 007 wears like a dream. 38.6mm is a happy medium diameter for my 6.75” wrist, truly neither feeling big nor small. This further lends itself to the sportiness of this case as well, as a “dress” watch for my wrist is closer to 36mm. The 45mm lug-to-lug is ideal as well, but once again, it’s the height that is the standout feature.
The Evo 9 series cases were designed to have a low center of gravity to begin with, so even the 11.9mm SLGH005 felt thinner in practice. Starting under 10mm, the 007 is delightfully flat, especially for how robust it is, aided by the caseback slightly sinking into the wrist and the gentle downward curve of the lugs. This all leads to a watch that is simply easier and more comfortable to wear.
The oddly rare-for-GS 20mm lug width was something I was pleased to see, as the strap the 007 comes on isn’t to my taste in terms of fit. Looks-wise, it’s actually lovely. It’s a dark, almost denim matte blue with a pronounced natural grain. It’s very well made, featuring rembordé or rolled edges, for a finished appearance. My issue is that it’s a very long strap with a deployant buckle that comes mounted reverse, so the tail wraps towards the inside of your wrist.
It’s just too much strap. It’s bulky and longer than I find appealing for my wrist size, though I was closer to the middle sizing hole than the smallest, making it fight the watch, thus somewhat negating the ergonomics of the case size. It’s an easy fix thanks to the 20mm lugs, but I would love to see this strap in a classic two-piece with a pin buckle.
All this talk about the case, its thickness, and how it wears without talking about how and why it actually is this thin… As pointed out earlier, it’s easy to forget that the real star of the show should be the 9SA4 movement within. Based on the same format as the 9SA5, it’s more than just a removal of the automatic winding system. Rather, about 40% of the movement is new, resulting in a different overall design and some features specifically created for a manual movement. It’s that last point that I think makes it particularly special.
But, before getting to that, it’s worth noting the other standout elements of the 9SA4. Namely, it features Grand Seiko’s proprietary dual-impulse escapement (which uses both direct and indirect impulses), in concert with dual mainsprings and MEMS manufacturing, allowing a frequency of 36,000bph and 80 hours of power reserve. Additionally, the balance spring features their proprietary overcoil design; the balance is free-sprung and mounted to a full bridge. Combined with regulation and testing in six positions at three temperatures for 17 days, the result is a highly accurate movement, tested to a +5/-3 mean rate.
Those are the features it shares with the 9SA5. What’s new is an added power reserve on the back and a new winding click. The former is great for practical reasons: you don’t want your watch to die midday by accident, and it doesn’t clutter the dial. The latter is both aesthetic and very well considered. The click, which is easy to identify when winding, is designed to resemble a wagtail, a local bird found in Morioka, near the Shizukuishi studio where Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches are assembled. When you wind the watch, it pecks away, creating the click. But it’s not just cute; it was designed to have both a pleasing feel and sound.
These features not only encourage winding but also viewing the movement when you do so. To that end, it’s a nice movement to look at as well. The plate design, unsurprisingly, is inspired by the natural surroundings of the Shizukuishi studio. You’ll find a ¾ plate, a smaller plate, and the full balance bridge, all decorated with striping. There are bevels, which are machine-polished, polished screw heads, and perlage peaking out behind the balance. All in all, it’s an attractive movement, especially for those of us who like large plates (I don’t know why I do, but I do).
Apart from the case metal, the primary difference between the 003 and the 007 is the dial color. Utilizing the same “birch bark” texture, the 007 is rendered in a lovely, subtle navy blue. It’s dark, but clearly blue, never crossing into “maybe black” territory. The texture, which on the 003 came across as a bit coarse to my eyes, feels more restrained in the navy. There is also a curious fading effect at the edges of the more raised portions, which adds an almost mysterious quality.
Though the seemingly official nickname for this model is the “moonlit birch,” I have another name to propose based on this effect: “smoke on the water.” If no one told me it was birch, I would say it looked more like mist or smoke hovering above a body of water at night.
Poetic interpretation aside, another neat effect is at play: the dial is both matte and glossy. The navy blue surface itself is matte, which is uncommon for GS, as most of their dials, at least those I have seen, have some metallic luster. However, on the surface is a thin, transparent layer, where the markers are applied and the index is printed. Catch the light at certain angles and it lights up. This doesn’t affect the watch’s use at all; it’s just a curious thing I noticed.
The conclusion to this review is not going to be profound: it’s a stunning watch. It looks great, it fits great, and it has an awesome movement in it that no other brand can really match. Well, no other brand, but Grand Seiko, which I sometimes feel is its own biggest competitor. At around $10,000, which is the price of the 007 at the time of writing, GS offers many watches with cool movements. When the 9SA4 launched, there were the 9SA5 (of course), the 9RA2 five-day spring drive, and the 9R31 manual spring drive. Not even a year later, and they added the 9RB2 U.F.A, perhaps the coolest spring drive of them all.
With many in similar cases and dials, there’s a high risk of decision paralysis, as well as the “wait and see” approach, hoping for the ideal combo of movement, dial, and case to be created (this is often how I feel). But, that aside, there’s also the question of whether $10k is a reasonable price for the 007, and that’s tricky. Once again, GS isn’t doing itself any favors by offering essentially the same level of fit and finish across its entire line (excluding “masterpiece” models). Don’t get me wrong, that’s awesome, especially on the affordable-by-comparison 9F models (like my SBGX331), but it means at $10k, you’re not unlocking a new level of finish, per say. With that said, the Evolution 9 case, as well as hands and markers, is more complicated, thus needing more techniques, if executed at the same level. And that design is only available at the higher price point.
As for the movement, the 9SA4 is impressive. It’s a notable step up from older generation movements and does seem properly “high-end.” The design, in terms of plate shapes and details, especially the considerations regarding the winding experience, is fantastic. The finishing is very good, though short of outstanding. I do wish the bevels were hand-polished, as under a loupe or through a macro lens, they don’t look amazing, but that is likely incompatible with the manufacturing volume and MSRP.
$10k is a tough price point for many reasons, not the least of which is that it’s simply a large amount of money, no matter how you look at it. Expectations will be and should be high, no matter the customer. So, back to the question of whether it’s worth it or not. If you rule out GS as a competitor, no other large-scale luxury brand offers watches with this level of fit and finish and a modern, high-spec movement, unless I’m blanking on something. Some indies are doing interesting things around this price point, such as Habring2, Kudoke, Benzinger, Garrick, Sartory Billard, and Holthinrichs. Still, once again, you’re not going to find a movement like the 9SA4 in terms of features, though there might be hand-finished options. So, while aspirational, the 007 seems fair in the current market. And, more importantly, I’m sure any owner will enjoy it immensely. Grand Seiko
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