Monochrome Teams up with Angelus for their Latest Montre de Souscription Limited Edition
One thing that we’ve learned quite clearly over the last decade or so is that there are a lot of different ways to release a limited edition watch, particularly a collaborative limited edition. Our friends over at Monochrome have a particularly interesting way of doing it, with their Montre de Souscription series, which makes limited edition watches available on a “subscription” basis, a throwback to a very old way of selling watches. This is essentially the offer of a pre-order with money down, that allows the watchmakers to begin working on the pieces to be sold later. The concept has evolved and become quite common, but in the early days of watchmaking this was the only way that fine watches could be made and that everyone involved could make a living at it, so the term has come to evoke classical watchmaking in a very real way. For their part, Monochrome has chosen to work with some very esteemed and similarly old-fashioned independent brands since this series launched in 2020, including Habring (twice), Armin Strom, and Czapek.
Last week, they debuted the latest MDS series watch, the Montre de Souscription 5 x Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre. This is a new spin on the Chronographe Télémètre, a watch that was among our favorite debuts at Watches & Wonders last year. As you might guess from the name, the new piece made with Monochrome switches out the telemeter scale on the chronograph for a tachymeter.
There are other little changes as well, but the most important things about this watch have stayed the same. Namely, the case dimensions and the movement. Let’s tackle the case first. In stainless steel, it measures 37mm in diameter, which is a size that vintage watch lovers have been begging for in watches of this caliber for years. It’s true to the spirit of watches from the era that inspired it in a way that few are – even many of the most conservative watches in this category upsize their chronographs to 38 or 39mm, including Angelus themselves, prior to the release of the Chronographe Télémètre last year. The smaller size means that not only does the watch wear nearly perfectly (on most wrists, probably) but, crucially, it allows the dial to be a bit better balanced.
The movement is the A5000, made by La Joux Perret. It’s a monopusher chronograph caliber that is uncommonly thin and allows this watch to measure in at just 9.25mm tall. This is a movement with real history, designed by F.P. Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter for use in the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, which has become a modern classic since it was introduced in the 1990s, catching these three kingpins of indie watchmaking in a much younger phase of their respective careers. The specific version of the A5000 used in the Montre de Souscription 5 x Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre features a gorgeous 3N gold plated mainplate and bridges, which are meant to contrast sharply with the stainless steel chronograph mechanism. It’s a very attractive caliber for sure.
Monochrome’s version of this watch swaps out the telemeter scale for a tachymeter, a nod to the team’s interest in motorsport. The dial is gold toned with a matte and lightly grained finish, with contrasting black printing.
The Montre de Souscription 5 x Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre carries a retail price of EUR 18,500. A deposit of EUR 5,000 is required at the time of ordering. More information can be found at Monochrome here.
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